Hentley Farm review, Barossa Valley best restaurants | delicious.SA: Regional 50

Significant changes in floorplan and personnel haven’t dented Hentley’s popularity as its talented young kitchen team, now under the leadership of Clare Salzon, take it all in their stride.

Hentley Farm on November 1, 2020 in the Barossa Valley, South Australia. Picture Matt Turner.

Cnr Gerald Roberts and Jenke roads, Seppeltsfield

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hentleyfarm.com.au

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Significant changes in floorplan and personnel haven’t dented Hentley’s popularity as its talented young kitchen team, now under the leadership of Clare Salzon, take it all in their stride.

The pause for COVID-19 allowed time for some structural rejigs to this magnificent vineyard property, opening up the kitchen and turning the front section into a new space for wine tasting, replacing the old cellar door. Flights of Hentley’s much-lauded range now can be swirled and sipped alongside a selection of snacks (kingfish with ponzu and spring onion, fried shiitake mushroom doughnut) delivered direct from the kitchen via a new servery.

The glass cube at the back is set aside for what is now known as the Atrium Dining Experience, a six-course degustation (plus multiple snacks) that despite a significant commitment in time (three hours) and expense is booked out until the new year.

While new ideas are blossoming, the influence of recently-departed head chef Lachlan Colwill is still evident (as are a couple of his signature dishes, such as the egg shell filled with passionfruit and yoghurt).

The parade of small courses hails largely from foods foraged in and around Greenock Creek, as well as the kitchen’s own garden.

Combinations wend from the likes of celeriac, burnt onion, ricotta and rye, to blushing slices of rare kangaroo teamed with quandong and mountain pepper, all designed to be in harmony with the Hentley wines.

With a focus on vegetables complemented by key proteins, things are also easily adjusted to full vegetarian mode.

This restaurant oozes a heightened sense of occasion and usually provides the opportunity to talk to the chefs – though to be really close to the action, groups of seven to a dozen can book a table alongside the kitchen.

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• Hours: L Thu-Sun
• Bill: Degustation $180 ($190 from Jan 1, 2021)
• Wine: Wine list and BYO | Corkage $17
• Chef: Clare Salzon