Bush DeVine Cafe review, Clare Valley best restaurants | delicious.SA: Regional 50

The enjoyment of a fine long lunch is heightened by great views and lovely wine. Bush Devine Café has both.

Food at Bush DeVine Cafe.

Paulett Wines, 752 Jolly Way, Polish Hill River

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paulettwines.com.au

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The enjoyment of a fine long lunch is heightened by great views and lovely wine. Bush Devine Café has both.

The lunch-only restaurant in Paulett Wines cellar door looks out over rolling Polish Hill River paddocks and vineyards. A choice of three “feed me” options is served on a sweeping deck and, while the décor is modest, what arrives on the plate is exciting.

Young chef Thomas ‘Erky’ Erkelenz creates dishes inspired by native Australian ingredients presented in a modern Aussie context. Like the colour explosion that is the “smallish starter” of cured salmon, baby beets, horseradish, pickled quandong and drizzling of burnt leek oil (a revelation).

Crumbed Remarkable Meat Co lamb arrives in tiny shipping-container-shaped cubes, alongside muntries, broad beans and beer-pickled celeriac (Paulett Wines make beer, too).

Servings are generous and the choice of four “larger plates” takes things up a notch; from masterstock chicken to a smallgoods and native condiments platter for one. Erky makes organic spelt sourdough bread every day and the saltbush butter with which it is served (topped with fried saltbush) is a memory-maker.

Native ingredients feature in the desserts such as rose myrtle panna cotta as well. The property has established an Australian bush food garden which provides a sensory experience for visitors and ingredients for some of the dishes.

Go for the optional matched wines option for the full experience and, if you’re short on time, the wine flight with paired native canapes is an example of wine tasting at its very best.

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• Hours: L Thu-Sun
• Bill: Feed me options from $40-$62 (extra for matched wines) D $8-$12
• Wine: Wine list
• Chef: Thomas Erkelenz