Bombora on the River review, Fleurieu best restaurants | delicious.SA: Regional 50

Bombora’s shift from Goolwa’s beach to the river bank hasn’t changed its welcoming vibe.

Thai fish cakes with cucumber and coriander sauce at Bombora on the River.

94 Barrage Rd, Goolwa

[phone]

bomboragoolwa.com

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Bombora’s shift from Goolwa’s beach to the river bank hasn’t changed its welcoming vibe.

Chef/owner Joel Cousins and partner Casey have taken over the old Aquacaf, nestled in beside and beneath the Goolwa Aquatic Club, with the bulk of the building protecting it from the prevailing wind.

Tables are spread across three zones: inside close to the kitchen; a deck with sliding plastic blinds; and a paved courtyard outside that caters to those wanting a stop-gap bowl of wedges or cup of coffee.

It’s all in keeping with the something-for-all ethos of Bombora that is reflected in a lunch menu including a selection of toasted baguettes and burgers, as well as a decent kids’ list. The big attraction, however, is the range of seafood choices.

Start with excellent fish cakes, the minced fillet and herbs retaining some texture rather than being blended to oblivion, the Thai flavours more aromatic than anything too hot or sour.

Meaty portions of soft-shell crab, juicy as a ripe peach, are teamed with a mild sweet chilli and ginger salsa. Boarfish fillet is floured and grilled with great expertise, the flesh breaking apart to show a pearly lustre. It is curled up on a stack of bok choy and asparagus that have been finished on the grill.

To finish, choose from cakes and slices in the display cabinet.

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• Hours: B Thu-Mon L Thu-Mon
• Bill: E $7-$17.50 M $24-$32 D $3.50-$6
• Wine: Wine list plus BYO | Corkage $20
• Chef: Joel Cousins