I never expected this at breakfast in Barcelona

Forget sticking to the tourist trail. To experience Barcelona's most surprising flavours, this is the way to see the city.

On the table are plates of pork trotter terrine with beans, and sobrasada sausage from Menorca served with fried eggs and honey. It’s not my usual breakfast – most often a bowl of cereal – but this is not my usual turf. I’m in Barcelona, Spain, and our group is dining at La Pubilla. It’s a simple restaurant that’s been open since 1912, and showcases everyday Barcelona cuisine often overlooked by tourists.

Not that everything is unfamiliar on this Made in Catalonia food tour. Our guide’s accent is instantly familiar, and that’s because Lynda Trevitt is an Aussie. Originally from Central West NSW, she fell in love with a local journalist when passing through Spain 30 years ago. The couple settled in Barcelona, where they raised a family, giving Lynda an understanding of what makes the city tick.

A big part of that is its cuisine, which is why Lynda is taking us to the food outlets of Gràcia, a neighbourhood off the city’s tourist trail. In the 19th century, it transformed from a country town to a working-class community, and it still has a character of its own – including a strong Catalán identity.

As we enjoy the taste sensations at our starting point – the sausage is surprisingly good when stirred up with the egg and honey – our guide tells us about historic influences on the local food scene, from the Romans (wine and olives) to the Moors (citrus fruits and spices). And lots of ham, of course.

Made in Catalonia is a lengthy tour, lasting over five hours and taking in two main meals. Between those, our group of five – four Americans and me – explores every aspect of local cuisine, starting with a market visit where we taste plantain from the Canary Islands, along with polvorones (sweet biscuits), sausage and cheeses. My favourite here is Garrotxa, an earthy goat’s cheese.

Snacks along the Made in Catalonia Tour.

Passing along Gran de Gràcia, the district’s main drag, we admire Art Nouveau architecture before dropping into an old-school bean and nut shop to learn about xufes, tubers that look like peanuts. We also have a taste of local almonds – soft and delicious.

Then we visit a shop specialising in olive oil before arriving at Pastisseria Montserrat, an array of sweet treats decorating its display cases. Here we try turrón (a type of nougat), catànies (chocolate-coated almonds), and an Andalusian sweet with the curious name “little bacon from heaven” (made from egg yolk, sugar and water).

Vermuteria del Tano.

At Vermuteria del Tano, we enjoy a glass of vermouth, which Lynda says is so popular that it’s a verb in Catalán: “To vermouth before lunch on a Sunday”. It comes with a pickled anchovy wrapped around an olive on a stick, which is dipped in the drink to cut through its sweetness.

After a visit to Jamonarium, ham specialists, it’s time for lunch, so we take a seat at a table at Cal Boter. This traditional country-style restaurant serves us wine from a long-necked glass jug to accompany a meal of cod and potatoes in aïoli, and a platter of cooked snails (the latter perhaps a reminder of the city’s proximity to France). It’s simple but delicious food – with the flavour of Catalonia.

The writer was a guest of Hotel España, Eurail and Turespaña.

Originally published as I never expected this at breakfast in Barcelona