Follow a bend in the Torrens to discover our own River Cafe

SIT back and watch the world go by as you enjoy Italian-inspired fare, says Simon Wilkinson

Sit back and watch the world go by as you enjoy Italian-inspired fare, says Simon Wilkinson

Big things are underway on the banks of the River Torrens.

During the Festival it is a place for outdoor concerts and a party hub. Work will soon begin on the bridge spanning the theatres of art and sport.

But a short paddle downstream, around a slight bend to the weir, things couldn’t be more tranquil.

From our window seat at the River Café, the bottom of a double-decker restaurant alongside the weir, we watch as Pop-Eye glides silently towards us, slicing through hypnotic reflections of the city lights.

On a balmy night, the deck will put you right over the water.

The best known River Café, of course, is on the Thames in London. Here Rose Gray (who died in 2010) and Ruth Rogers made headlines cooking authentic, heartfelt Italian food. The fact a chirpy Essex lad named Jamie Oliver also was discovered in the kitchen only added to its cachet.

Adelaide’s River Café also draws inspiration from the Italian kitchen, albeit without the same commitment to any particular region or style.

Our starters are a case in point. The café’s take on vitello tonata, a long-time signature dish, brings together paper-thin slices of poached veal, almost carpaccio like in their melting rareness, slivers of seared yellowfin tuna, a scattering of white anchovies and capers, and, finally, a random drizzle and splodge of tuna mayonnaise. Pretty on the plate, it’s a clever re-interpretation of a classic.

Quite the opposite in style are the mussels, a heap of large-shelled specimens from Port Lincoln, in a striking red pool of sauce with pleasant lingering chilli heat. With a man-size wedge of bread for dunking, this is sleeves-up, fingers-in eating.

The riverside property in which we’re sitting is a monument to the chutzpah of entrepreneur Bill Sparr, who died last year.

The ownership reins have now been handed to long-time Sparr Group lieutenant Ray Mauger, who is also the executive chef and heads the River Café kitchen following the recent departure of Sarah Whetstone, whose recipes appeared in this magazine.

Sarah’s affinity with Middle Eastern and Moroccan flavours lives on, however, in a tagine of goat, brought to the table in the traditional cone-topped vessel.

The warmth and earthiness of the ochre sauce are lifted by bursts of lemon, chilli and coriander, as well as the texture of a fregola salad.

Different cuts of goat have been used and some have taken to the slow braise better than others. The best pieces fall easily from the bone but a few flappy bits with silver skin still attached are hard work.

No such problems with the beef cheeks that have been cooked to spoon-food softness. Also on the plate are a cylinder of Roman-style gnocchi, a decent beetroot and pepper glaze and Puy lentils that have lost their bite.

Desserts return to the theme of classics with a twist and both work a treat.

A tiramisu is presented as a round, cocoa-dusted tower, with layers of liqueur-soaked sponge and marscapone.

Better still is the surprise of a perfect panna cotta, with just a hint of limoncello, alongside more Middle Eastern flavours in an apricot compote with cardamom, as well as the crunch of pistachio biscotti.

Our River Café suffers a little from out-of-sight, out-of-mind syndrome. But dishes such as these should convince more people to go with the flow and explore around the bend.

HOW IT RATED
FOOD 29/40
STAFF 7/10
DRINK 7/10
VALUE 16/20
X FACTOR 15/20
TOTAL 74

RIVER CAFE
War Memorial Drive, North Adelaide; ph 8211 8666; rivercafe.com.au

Owner/chef Ray Mauger.
Food Italian.
Drinks Fully licensed, with good selection at fair prices; BYO corkage $18
Hours Lunch Mon-Fri noon-2.30pm Dinner Mon-Sat from 6pm.
Starters $6.50-$22 Entrees $15.50-$22 Mains $22.50-$38.50 Desserts $12.50-15.50.
Cards Eftpos, Visa, Mastercard, Amex, Diners.
Parking on street (pick up extended parking coupon at reception).
Seats 120 inside, 40 outside.