Vino Lokal is a Barossa surprise – five wineries get their act together

Five acclaimed regional winemakers have teamed to open a wine bar and eatery with a few unexpected twists, writes Simon Wilkinson

Simon Wilkinson

@simon_food

3 min read

July 26, 2019 - 9:00PM

SA Weekend

delicious SA

Don't miss out on the headlines from delicious SA. Followed categories will be added to My News.

FOUR precisely judged splashes of Barossa red are brought to the table in stemless goblets that fit neatly into the hollows of a custom-made plank. They seem as if they are to be used in an experiment, which isn’t too far from the truth.

While all look similar sitting undisturbed, when they are held to the light, tilted, swirled, sniffed and finally slurped, the different personalities shine, a reflection of their various makers.

Alongside the wine is a plate of steak that also defies expectations. Rather than the blokey slab of sirloin with mash and a sticky puddle of sauce, slices of rare skirt are coated in a crumble of roasted koji (fermented rice) laced with shreds of kaffir lime. Drizzled in a perky nam jim and wrapped in a lettuce leaf, they would be right at home poolside in Pattaya.

But this is mid-winter in Tanunda, not steamy Thailand, and despite the stellar example set by FermentAsian just up the road, it is still a surprise to find such a dish in a venue so focused on what’s happening in the glass.

Interior/detail photos of Vino Lokal. Picture: Bianca De Marchi

Vino Lokal is the home (for now at least) of the Artisans of Barossa, a collective of five like-minded wine producers who have pooled resources rather than having their own cellar doors.

Forced to shift out of a spectacular vineyard setting on the Valley’s eastern slopes, they have moved to a very different style of property in the middle of town.

An old shoe shop, saved from potential demolition, has been converted into a wine bar of elegance and style, in the front half at least. The character of the original structure resonates in a gorgeous white marble bar, recycled timber shelving and old lamps that glow softly overhead. The art deco curves, plush fabrics and a shimmering curtain covering the window give it all a theatrical feel. A doorway in the back wall leads to a new extension, including a dining space built with larger groups in mind, and the open kitchen.

Chef Ryan Edwards, best known for his tenure at nearby fine diner Appellation, oversees the culinary component of this and other Artisan projects, combining a hard-earned technical skillset with an open and enquiring mind. The result is that the cooking at Vino Lokal can be hard to keep tabs on, let alone categorise. While the menu for the week of this visit had a strong leaning towards South-East Asia, his next will include a pigeon and mushroom pie. The constant is that they will always cater for everything from a quick nibble-and-sip to a full-blown extravaganza.

Wine rack at Vino Lokal-. Picture: Bianca De Marchi

The wine structure is equally flexible, with examples from the artisans available by bottle, glass and comparative flights grouped by varietal or style.

So four rieslings and four “textural and refreshing” whites are set down initially to accompany a bowl of marinated olives and another of fresh cucumber, the skin blackened by a blowtorch before it is chopped and coated in a Japanese sesame dressing.

South Australia pork belly and chilli kimchi at Vino Lokal. Picture: Simon Wilkinson

Fingers of golden-brown fried haloumi come with twin dips – an inspired quince and jalapeno jam, then crème fraiche – in a smart play on classic pub wedges with their sweet chilli/sour cream accompaniment. That jam would taste good on anything.

From there, the direction becomes more Asian and more complex. Cubes of fried pork belly are doused in a chilli caramel and then tossed with chopped cabbage kimchi that is not for the faint hearted. The trick here is to use the skewers to impale meat and veg together for the right balance.

Skirt steak and nam jim at Vino Lokal, picture: Simon Wilkinson

Spencer Gulf king prawns, peeled but heads still in place, are doused in a beautiful Sri Lankan pepper sauce that crashes in with wave after wave of flavour. Garlic chives and, more surprisingly, brussels sprouts are in the mix as well, while a slightly oily roti is there to do the mopping up. Along with the skirt steak, and its mysterious nutty/salty crumble, it’s the pick of the day.

Proceedings then take a strange turn. The only dessert is a spiced honey cake and ice cream sandwich that isn’t exactly front of mind on this chilly day. No coffee or tea is available either, a policy that is likely to change soon.

It leads, however, to a bigger issue. For all the assets of Vino Lokal – the wine, the chef, the setting – it lacks the sense of hospitality and professional service nous to really make it jell.

Stay tuned. A more ambitious Artisans venture is in the pipeline and, when both parts are in synch, they should really hum.