Flinders Bush Retreats is a great jumping off point to explore the wonders of the Flinders Ranges

A refurbished farmhouse provides the perfect spot to relax or plan your Flinders Ranges forays.

Mt Scott homestead, Flinders Ranges.

There’s nothing quite like the sound of rain drumming on a tin roof, especially when it’s the first rain in months, if not years.

As a regular traveller to the Flinders Ranges I’ve had the privilege of seeing it cycle through periods of near-drought and plenty, with bursts of tiny blue and yellow wildflowers, and bizarre orb spider blooms following good rains. But the other side of the ledger can be pretty harsh, and by April this year the place was looking very dusty in parts. We met a local farmer droving his sheep along the road from shearing just outside Hawker who’d been feed-lotting for two years or so.

But there was a hint of rain in the air. Our fellow travellers had spoken with one of the traditional owners at Wilpena, who said the flying ants were stirring – a sure sign rain was on the way.

We’d spent the days over Easter exploring the bone-dry riverbed next to the Mt Scott homestead outside Hawker, and on jaunts up to Wilpena and the odd 4WD detour, and the possibility of any of these rivers running with water seemed an impossibility, rain or no. (Note – that’s the natural state of these riverbeds, which sit idle for years waiting for the flash floods which accompany a substantial downpour).

But driving back into Hawker on our second last day at Mt Scott, and the coming front loomed ominous in the distance. The purple, pink and indigo skies which make the Flinders so captivating in the evenings were exchanged for dark storm clouds tipping buckets on properties kilometres to our west.

Back at the homestead the kids had been marshalled into a crack, tent-deconstruction crew, pulling our two sleep outs inside the cosy homestead as the winds threatened to bowl them over.

Kids enjoying themselves at Flinders Bush Retreats. Supplied.

Having had a punctured tyre fixed, we rolled out of Hawker as 20c-piece sized water drops began hitting the rear window of the 4WD. About 20 minutes later and it was coming down in sheets.

Perched under the veranda, a glass of Mosquito Hill pinot noir in hand, it was a sight to behold. The rain gauge would later tell us we’d had 11mm of rain. The official numbers say just five. It wasn’t a break in the season by any stretch, but watching the rain pool on the parched earth after months of news reports about the big dry again settling in in SA, it was a sight to inspire joy, and hope.

Farmers in the Flinders are a hardy bunch – some have been a little ambitious, flirting with more than the land well above the Goyder Line can really handle back in the old days. Thankfully for travellers keen to see this amazing country up close, some of them have more recently turned their hands to homestead-style accommodation options, glamping and camping.

Mt Scott, just to the East of Hawker, is a three bedroom, two bathroom homestead, operated by Flinders Bush Retreats. The homestead has been refurbished and made very comfortable, without losing its outback charm, and has a great fire pit to boot, providing a great venue for marshmallow roasting and yarn spinning when the rain isn’t falling.

How’s that for a fire pit?

It’s a great jumping-off point to explore the southern reaches of the Flinders, with Wilpena Pound, Sacred Canyon, Brachina Gorge and the Prairie Hotel all easily drivable.

Flinders Bush Retreats has glamping and camping options also, with the Eco Tent equipped with a queen-sized bed, kitchenette and polished wood floors a great alternative for a more intimate and romantic experience.

While it’s a bit of drive from Adelaide to the southern reaches of the Flinders, it’s a must-do trip for any South Australian. The sunsets are simply captivating, and the majesty of the centuries-old river red gums which dot the river beds and the craggy, millennia-old geology, and indigenous rock art, combine for an experience which is both beautiful and humbling.

Reviews are unannounced and paid for by SAWeekend

FLINDERS BUSH RETREATS

ADDRESS: Willow Waters Rd, Hawker

PHONE: [phone]; flindersbushretreats.com.au

LOCATION: Mt Scott Homestead. Hawker, about 400km north of Adelaide.

ACCOMMODATION: Camping, glamping, or the three-bedroom Mt Scott Homestead, also with an option for extra campers.

FACILITIES: Modern kitchens and bathrooms, fireplace and fire pit, two bathrooms, BBQ, TV and DVD player, iPod dock.

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes.

PRICE: $330 per night for 1-4 guests. Additional guests $50. Glamping – $209 per night. Camping – $10 per vehicle.

RATING: 4.5/5